Shunde'S "Cloud Yarn Hometown" As City Strategy

On March 8, Liang Zi, a female designer in Paris, France, could not afford to celebrate the festival for herself. Instead, she kept busy preparing a special xiangyunsha themed fashion show, bringing "soft gold" produced by Shunde into the French wardrobe.

Not long ago, good news came from Shunde Lunjiao, which is more than 10000 kilometers away. With the approval of the State Intellectual Property Office, the collective trademark of "yunsha hometown" registered by Shunde Lunjiao xiangyunsha association was approved and registered successfully. This is the fifth national "gold signboard" approved by the industry.

This good news not only gives Liangzi and other designers more confidence to promote Lunjiao Xiangyun yarn in the global fashion capital. For Shunde Xiangyun yarn industry, it is like injecting a needle in the heart, which further condenses the consensus of "both ends" of the smile curve of Xiangyun fabric industry.

Planning first

"Cloud yarn hometown" as city strategy

God color Lun Jiao dye, Tian Gong Xiang Yun Sha.

"Xiangyun yarn", also known as Dioscorea cirrhosa, hyoscyam silk and cloud yarn, is a famous dyeing fabric unique to southern China. It is also a rare real silk fabric dyed with pure natural dyes in the world. Xiangyunsha dyeing and finishing technology and cluster appeared in the middle of Qing Dynasty, and now it mainly exists in Shunde Lunjiao.

Xiangyunsha dyeing and finishing technology was listed in the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage list in 2008. At present, it has 9 project representative inheritors, such as Liang Zhu and Huang Tiansheng.

Since Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing technology was listed as intangible cultural heritage, Shunde District and Lunjiao sub district governments, according to their characteristics of high degree of integration with modern times and great industrialization potential, have made every effort to promote the "Four Combinations" of intangible cultural heritage of Xiangyun dyeing and finishing technology with modern life, modern technology, modern products and modern aesthetics, so as to make traditional crafts shine with the glory of a new era and help the high-quality development of the city.

As the source of origin, Lunjiao deeply realized the uniqueness and importance of protecting, inheriting and developing the intangible cultural heritage of Xiangyun dyeing and finishing technology, and made many efforts for it. As early as 2020, Lunjiao clearly put forward the "cloud yarn hometown" urban strategy, and put it into the street key strategy to promote, and formulated the "protective development" strategy of "science and technology, culture and finance".

In terms of supporting policies, Lunjiao has successively issued the three-year action plan for the high-quality development of Lunjiao Xiangyun yarn industry (2020-2022) and the supporting measures for the development of cultural and creative industries in Lunjiao street, improving the inheritance system of intangible cultural heritage, creating the development system of intangible cultural heritage, building a comprehensive marketing and promotion system of intangible cultural heritage, and providing financial support of more than 4 million yuan / year, We will comprehensively promote the protection of intangible cultural heritage and the development of xiangyunsha cultural industry.

Innovation path

Constructing the pattern of protecting the intellectual property rights of xiangyunsha

Driven by the policy, a group of designers set up ethical education, focusing on the innovation and Entrepreneurship of xiangyunsha.

Ling Honglian is one of the top ten fashion designers in Guangdong Province, a professional lecturer of Guangdong University of technology, and the founder of Yunxi shahua studio. Under the incubation and cultivation of Lunjiao state-owned assets, the business of Foshan Shidai Huasha Co., Ltd. founded by Ling Honglian is gradually on the right track.

"Last year was the second year for the company to start a business." Ling Honglian said that in order to catch up with the recovery of xiangyunsha market, she not only took root in Shunde, but also opened a direct store in Guangzhou and cooperated with CO branded brands. But Ling Honglian is also suffering from growing pains. She hopes to introduce more fashion designers to Shunde and further expand the scale of the enterprise.

Shuai Guiying is another top ten fashion designer in Guangdong Province, who is deeply engaged in xiangyunsha industry. In August last year, she registered in Shunde Lunjiao to set up Shunde Zhonglang Culture Development Co., Ltd., and founded the "women's impression" which is a brand full of women's power.

In November 2021, during the 2021 Bay Area (Guangdong) fashion culture week autumn, Shuai Guiying led the team to stage the scene of basking in the Ranunculus. With the assistance of the Cantonese Opera Mu Guiying, she released more than 50 sets of "women's impression" series of xiangyunsha costumes. After a shot, Shuai Guiying also worried: "I have been engaged in the clothing design industry for 30 years. At present, I have got through the links of clothing research and development, design and production, and live sales, but I am constrained by the front-end fabric production."

Three steaming, nine boiling and eighteen drying, xiangyunsha is the "soft gold" in the textile industry.

"Before that, there was no collective trademark in the xiangyunsha industry in Shunde. Although enterprises registered their own trademarks, most of them fought their own way. There was still room for the industry to enhance the brand attraction." Lu Tianzhuo, deputy director of Lunjiao market supervision and Management Institute.

In order to expand the regional influence of Lunjiao Xiangyun yarn industry and promote the development of industrial enterprises in groups, Lunjiao sub district office and publicity, sports, tourism office took the initiative to guide Lunjiao Xiangyun yarn association to carry out the registration and application of collective trademark of "cloud yarn hometown" in August 2020. During this period, in order to successfully apply for collective trademark, Lunjiao xiangyunsha Association fully listened to the professional opinions of the industry and formed effective trademark management rules after repeated deliberation with people from all walks of life.

After some efforts, in January this year, the State Intellectual Property Office issued to Lunjiao xiangyunsha Association No. 54731730 collective trademark registration certificate of "yunsha hometown". This is the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage list published by the State Council in 2008, Liangzhu was named as the representative inheritor of xiangyunsha dyeing and finishing technology by the Ministry of culture in June 2009, and the "xiangyunsha" was approved as a geographical indication protection product by the State Administration of quality supervision, inspection and quarantine in 2011 In 2018, after the certification trademark of "Lunjiao xiangyunsha" geographical indication was approved by the State Intellectual Property Office, Lunjiao Xiangyun yarn industry won the fifth national gold lettered signboard.

Chen Xiaoliang, executive vice president of Lunjiao xiangyunsha Association, believes that the "collective trademark" has been approved, the strategic layout of Lunjiao xiangyunsha to protect traditional excellent culture with modern intellectual property protection has been basically completed, and the overall intellectual property protection pattern of xiangyunsha has been formed.

Brand leading

Promote the chain strengthening and chain supplement of Xiangyun yarn industry

At present, Lunjiao xiangyunsha association has a total of 50 enterprise members, covering cloth trading, sun drying, designer studio, clothing manufacturing and sales, legal services, investment companies, packaging consumables and other enterprises. How to make better use of collective trademarks, promote the overall promotion of regional industries and participate in market competition in groups, and make efforts to smile at both ends of the curve, has attracted the attention of the industry.

Liang Zhu, the national intangible cultural heritage inheritor of xiangyunsha, believes that in recent years, the xiangyunsha industry is booming, and there are fake xiangyunsha from other regions in the market. The inferior products have a great impact on the fabric of Lunjiao origin, and the policy of "geographical indication + collective trademark" should be strengthened.

"We take root in Shunde to build a clothing brand, which is to strive for the cooperation of inheritors in the origin source, and carry out fabric research and development innovation." Ling Honglian believes that the collective trademark of "cloud yarn hometown" will be conducive to linking the resources of producing areas, and enhance the reputation and cost performance of clothing brands by playing the leading role of brand standards at the source of origin.

Lunjiao 456 silkworm seed farm cultural and creative park is an industrial park carefully built by provincial silk textile group in Shunde. As an important part of the Xiangyun yarn industry ecosystem, the park is going forward in two tracks, promoting the construction of Lunjiao Xiangyun yarn exhibition and trading center and Xiangyun yarn testing and Certification Center, strengthening and supplementing the Xiangyun yarn industry chain. Tang Zheng, deputy general manager of the park, introduced that the xiangyunsha futures trading platform built by the park has been directly connected to China's cocoon and silk trading market. In the future, it will establish an industry big data platform to help Lunjiao build a closed-loop industrial chain of xiangyunsha fabric research and innovation, trading, and the release and sales of designer brand clothing.

"Only when intangible cultural heritage is integrated into modern life can it radiate new vitality." As a leading enterprise in Lunjiao Xiangyun yarn industry chain, Huang Zhihua, chairman of Shunde Tianyi rangyuan ecological culture Investment Co., Ltd., disclosed that the company has opened Tianyi Ranunculus ecological fashion experience space in Paris. Next, it will continue to share Shunde Xiangyun yarn with the world through inheritance, research and development, design activation, Enhance the influence of Lunjiao Xiangyun yarn industry and beauty seeking economy in the global fashion industry.

-Dialogue

Chen Xiaoliang, executive vice president of Lunjiao xiangyunsha Association: creating a closed-loop value chain and enabling high-quality development of the industry

Nanfang Daily: in order to successfully apply for collective trademark, what efforts has the association made and what difficulties have been overcome?

Chen Xiaoliang: the application for registration of the collective trademark of "cloud yarn hometown" is an important deployment of Lunjiao Xiangyun yarn industry to excavate the economic value of Xiangyun yarn industry, which is of great significance. Since 2020, the association has started the registration of collective trademarks, engaged professional teams, widely solicited opinions from the industry, and formulated rules for the use and management of collective trademarks.

There are several important nodes in the efforts of the government and the association: on August 27, 2019, the Lunjiao sub district office issued the provisional measures for the development and support of the cultural and creative industries of Lunjiao street; On April 27, 2020, the "three year action plan for high quality development of Lunjiao Xiangyun yarn industry (2020-2022)" was issued; On June 24, 2021, the State Intellectual Property Office rejected the request for invalidation of the certification trademark of "Lunjiao xiangyunsha" by a textile industry association, and maintained the geographical indication certificate.

Nanfang Daily: how will the association make use of the collective trademark to promote the high-quality development of Xiangyun yarn industry?

Chen Xiaoliang: we hope to promote the large-scale and high-quality development of Xiangyun yarn industry through the empowerment of national intangible cultural heritage, geographical indications, certification trademarks and collective trademarks.

We will highlight the creation of the value chain of xiangyunsha industry, and transfer the cultural value and legal value of intangible cultural heritage stage to the economic value of industrial stage in a closed loop. Among them, intangible cultural heritage highlights the protection of traditional skills, geographical indications emphasize human and geographical environment factors, geographical indication certification trademarks highlight product quality assurance, and collective trademarks focus on the cohesion of the industry to form an industrial scale.

Through the use rules of collective trademarks, the implementation of the industry will be based on evidence. After the implementation, it will ensure the standardized development and healthy competition of the industry. To stipulate the rights enjoyed by the members of Lunjiao xiangyunsha Association, such as using the collective trademark on its products or packaging, using the collective trademark of "cloud yarn hometown" for product advertising, giving priority to participating in technical training, trade negotiation and information exchange activities sponsored or co organized by the association, supervising the use of collective trademark management fees and applying for support funds. At the same time, the corresponding obligations are planned, such as maintaining the quality, quality and reputation of "cloud yarn hometown" collective trademark products, ensuring the stability of product quality, accepting the association's irregular inspection of product quality and the supervision of trademark use.

It should also be noted that a series of supporting industries, including river mud protection, intellectual property traceability protection and supporting policies, with xiangyunsha industrial planning as the core, will be the key "catalyst" for the large-scale development of the industry. The registration of the collective trademark of "cloud yarn hometown" is a new starting point, and the development of xiangyunsha industry is still on the way.

(source: Nanfang Daily)